The White Spider has ratings and reviews. Raghu said: I have admired Heinrich Harrer ever since I came across his book ‘Seven Years in Tibet’ m. The ultimate classic mountaineering literature, The White Spider, follows Heinrich Harrer and team of three up the notorious North Face of the Eiger, leading to. Heinrich Harrer, author of Seven Years in Tibet’ and one of the twentieth century’s greatest mountaineers, was part of the team that finally conquered th.
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His treatment of the Corti incident is malicious and prejudiced. It is a classic of mountaineering literature.
The White Spider – Heinrich Harrer – Alpkit
While I have never understood the motivation of people who willingly place themselves in harm’s way by doing all sorts ahrrer bizarre things like hanging from ropes above precipices with rocks falling on their heads and winter blizzards forcing snow down their necks, I must admit they make fascinating reading.
He implied Corti’s rope must have been deliberately blocking the Germans, as no overtaking is possible, while later praising another German rope for proving that overtaking is possible anywhere on the wall.
This is particularly so in respect of the final third of the book, which was added after the book’s original publication into update on the attempts between and I got a little tired of the author’s constant talking about harre nobility of mountain climbers and their powerfulness and chivalry. His treatment of Corti is distasteful at best, and it’s shameful that his poor treatment of the man wasn’t retracted in later publications after vindicating evidence came to light in the years to follow.
The White Spider by Heinrich Harrer | : Books
Harrer not only tells his own story of his group’s first successful ascent of the Nordwand or Mordwand, depending on your point of viewhe traces the history of the mountain, recreating in careful detail the other successful attempts as well as the myriad disasters. The almost vertical wall on its North face and incessant rock fall along the route provided the opportunity to show heihrich extreme skill in mountaineering that the Peaks of Himalayas and the Karakoram lacked. The pace of the narrative then picks up when Harrer begins to detail the first attempts on the North Face starting inmost of which ended in tragedy as the route’s defenses were overcome one by one.
The knot would not go through the karabiner uarrer attached him to the rope! There’s only a certain number of times you can describe a very similar process, with the associated necessary technical language, without losing the heinrihc interest a little.
This spirit of collaboration is one of the centerpieces of The White Spiderfeaturing prominently in the success of Harrer’s team as well as in several other major climbs later on. It is the story of four friends: Harrer had some weird thing going harreg, and he refused to retract himself even after this discovery, which is just stubborn-headed. But I came away from it with far less appreciation that I had anticipated; the heindich few chapters are undeniably very compelling as Harrer outlines the early history of the Eiger attempts, the tragedies of climbers like Toni Kurz for example, and spiider to mention his own successful ascent which was the first ever.
They were found to have Corti’s equipment on them, which further exonerated Whkte. It is also the subject of “The Beckoning Silence”. The only truly noteworthy parts of the rest of the book are the first single-day ascent ofthe “European Rope” of Herman Buhl, Gaston Rebuffat and sspider seven other compatriots a textbook example of cooperation that prevented a huge tragedyand the catastrophe ofduring which the lone survivor was rescued with a winch lowered from the summit.
Although physically exhausted by the time they reach that point, climbers must navigate the steep ice-field to reach the peak’s summit. In terms of content, the mountain and its awesome natural feature are established as protagonists from the very beginning, in an jarrer context of the Golden Age of Climbing in the Alps.
Great read As a mountaineering enthusiast, I’m a huge fan of Harrer. Furthermore, it can be argued that Harrer anticipated the sensationalizing of climbing in the public imagination by repeatedly pointing out the media frenzy that ensued when climbers on the face could be followed by telescope from the nearby resorts and villages. Dec 07, Damien Evans rated it liked it.
Heckmair nearly fell down the south side. Hinterstoisser, who was not secured, was swept to his death.
The White Spider
As I was reading it, I knew I was going to have to purchase this and re-read it real soon. Its metaphor of a rope linking different nations in a common endeavour is a moving one, more topical whtie than ever.
You will finish it maybe convinced of the insanity of mountaineering, but certainly with a better understanding of what it is to climb. You will get to know the story behind a significant victory for humans vs nature. Corti himself was rescued only by winching a guide down from the summit on a steel cable.
This is all despite the fact that evidence to corroborate Corti’s account was uncovered, namely the bodies of Nothdurft and Meyer, and the general climbing fraternity had heinrkch to believe his account. He writes about his own team’s successful assault with clinical details and graphic descriptions of the various portions of the ascent on ice and rock and over waterfalls.
On the way back, when they reached Hinterstoisser’s Traverse, they found that it was covered wbite a layer of ice. The Germans gave Corti their tent following a fall by Corti’s partner whom he was not able to save and who died several days later hanging from a rope, despite whife efforts to save him. When the rescue team arrived early next morning, Kurz was still alive, but he could use only one hand.
Mankind has developed an ugly habit of only allowing true courage to the killers. Unexpected deaths, heroic rescue missions, sacrifices and daring harrrr that helped the next round of climbers go a step further, every bit gets you excited hwinrich mountaineering. Along hadrer way they crossed paths with the German pair of Heckmair and Vogg, and the two teams decided to join forces as one rope.
As Harrer describes, and the climbers discovered, the White Spider is the key to a successful ascent of the Nordwand. I loved building my knowledge whjte mountaineering. I was slightly wearied by the nature of the book, however, not being a big mountain climber myself. I understand where he is coming from in some sense, that the ascent should not be taken lightly and those who approach it ill-prepared are courting with danger, something to be discourage, but it’s also done in such a tasteless way.
It transcends all national frontiers. The tone is of a memoir and the high praise for all mountain climbers except that one guy gets a bit old harrr well as the complaints that people generally don’t think as highly of mountain climbers as the ought to. For all that, the book is worth reading for the sake of finding out about the history of the north face of the Eiger; its tragedies, as well as its triumphs. Only Kurz stayed alive, suspended in mid-air.
This is despite Simpson’s book having itself been inspired by Harrer’s, and Harrer’s book indeed having been the original inspiration that prompted Simpson to start climbing.